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Vienna's eateries cater to all budgets and cuisines. There's a preponderance of Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses), Heurigen (wine taverns) and Beisls (small restaurants), all plying the standard Austrian fare. The area northwest of the city, near the university, has numerous inexpensive restaurants.
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A typical scene in Yohm: black-clad waiters gliding from table to table, refilling glasses with celebrated Austrian wines as diners enjoy views of Peterskirche with their contemporary Asian cuisine. Sushi looms large on the menu, but consider ordering something more creative, such as udon noodles with Scottish salmon or fried duck roll with fresh mint and plum sauce. For all its class, it's a wonder meals are served with cheap wooden chopsticks.
Kim Kocht has been the talk of the town for years. Its Korean and Japanese cuisine is renowned for its originality, quality and creative presentation. The three- to five-course menus are constantly changing but often feature fish as the main, and always use organic produce. The restaurant only seats 25 and its popularity means making reservations at least one month ahead.
This small cellar café has been around for donkey's years. It's popularity stems from its convivial vibe, friendly staff, lovely vaulted ceilings, comfy surroundings and good, affordable food. Viennese classics are mixed in with a healthy range of Italian pastas and the salad selection is extensive. However, some will find the smoke overpowering as the evening rolls on, and trying to find a seat on a Saturday morning is a fruitless enterprise.
A creative menu and long hours (the kitchen closes at ) have helped keep Livingstone on Vienna's culinary short list for some time. Strips of marinated beef with ginger sit comfortably alongside Japanese soba (buckwheat) noodles and the chilli-burger. In between servings, it's possible to nip in for a wee drab of whiskey at bar Planters next door.
Amerlingbeisl's solid Austrian fare (and sprinkling of Italian pasta dishes) won't set your tastebuds alight but when combined with the setting, this is a lovely place to dine. Situated in the pedestrian quarter of Spittelberg, an old-worldly spot of tight cobblestone streets and quirky shops, this Beisl's inner courtyard is a lush oasis. On balmy summer nights the roof slides back to allow more fresh air to enter.
Bus 30A stops a few minutes' walk east of Wieninger, a family-run Heuriger in central Stammersdorf. The food buffet, which features organic produce and a healthy smattering of vegetarian options, is extensive, the wine from its own vineyard fruity and light, and the atmosphere local and relaxed. Cellar tours are also offered.
Wrenkh has been leading the way in vegetarian cuisine for years but its owner, Christian Wrenkh, recently introduced a handful of meat and fish dishes to the menu. The quality and presentation remains exquisite and everything is prepared with organic produce. Choose the vibrant front section with its glass walls and chatty customers or the quieter rear room with its intimate booths. Takeaway is also available from to Monday to Friday.
Possibly the finest sandwich shop in Austria, Trzesniewski has been serving spreads and breads to all manner of Viennese (Kafka was a regular here) for over 100 years. Choose from 21 delectably thick spreads such as paprika, tuna with egg, salmon, and Swedish herring to garnish your choice of bread or simply pick a selection from those waiting ready-made. Plan on sampling a few; two bites and they're gone. This is one of seven branches in Vienna.
As the oldest guesthouse in Vienna (it first opened its doors in 1447), and once frequented by Beethoven, Schubert and Brahms, Griechenbeisl is firmly on the tourist trail. It's still a lovely haunt, with vaulted rooms, age-old wooden panelling and a figure of Augustin trapped at the bottom of a well just inside the front door. Every classic Viennese dish is on the menu, and in summer the plant-fringed front garden is the best place to be.
A classic Beisl of legendary status, Zu den Zwei Liesln has been serving celebrities, politicians, office workers and students for decades. There are six varieties of schnitzel as well as other Viennese options and even two vegetarian choices. The wood panelling, simple wooden chairs and chequered tablecloths create a quaint and cosy interior, but the tree-shaded inner courtyard is more inviting in summer.
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